I have been asked by a LOT of folks which soldering iron I recommend. To give a little background, I used repair CRT monitors for a living back when A) a monitor was cheaper to repair than replace B) crt monitors were still in style. Sure it’s been a while but over the years I’ve used different irons. At that particular job, I used a Weller solder station. It wasn’t terrible but I can’t say it was overly impressive either. It was cheap ($60) and it got the job done. After that job, I didn’t buy my own solder station for years. Instead I bought cheapo irons from Radio Shack like it was going out of style. They used to be about $3 when I started buying them and now they are up to about $9. These irons sort of got the job done over the years but they had problems. I’ll just list off some of the top disadvantages that come to mind:
- They take forever to warm up to the proper temperature.
- They are unregulated so the temperature can be wildly inconsistent.
- The metals in the iron and tip are cheap and dissimilar. After a while the tip will loosen and it will be impossible to properly tighten it.
- The plating on the tip seems to be prone to gumming up and eventually becomes impossible to clean.
- If you drop the iron on the cord, it will burn through the insulation.
- They don’t come with a stand and I consider the ones they sell unsafe.
The main advantage, price, won me over all those years but I’ve rounded up my “collection” of these irons and it amounted to a large pile. I buy them like screwdrivers and strategically lose them in places where I’d likely remember to look later…
More recently, I’ve finally started soldering surface mount components on a regular basis so I decided I needed something that was regulated at the very least. Enter the Hakko 936. The 936 is NOT expensive for a solder station. In fact, you can get it on Amazon for around $85-$95 typically. Compared to my old Weller, it feels like a Mercedes Benz of soldering stations if there ever were such a thing. Instead of my typical conversational review, I will just explicitly list the advantages here:
- Heats up in 10-15 seconds.
- Indicator light lets you know it’s on.
- Temperature is regulated and it bounces back fast when pressed.
- Comes with a beefy stand with an integrated sponge to keep the tip clean.
- Burn proof wire from the iron to the base unit.
- ESD safe. (seems to be, I haven’t fried anything with it)
- Light weight iron feels well balanced in your hand.
- Tip stays clean for a long time.
- Chisel tip included with the iron is very versatile.(for my uses at least)
- Don’t need a 15w, 25w and a 40w solder iron to do different jobs. This one does it all.
There are probably even more advantages that I’m not thinking of but this list is a good start. Back when I started buying the crappy Radio Shack irons, I didn’t really know any better and soldering stations were still $150-$200 for a professional grade model. Thanks to global economics, demand and competition though, there are several choices under $150. Yes, there is also the Aoyue 936 for $50. I have not used it or compared them side-by-side but I can tell you that the Hakko looks, feels and performs like a professional piece of equipment. It does what I expect, when I expect it and overall has exceeded my expectations.
By the way, the Hakko(at least mine) is made in Japan if you were wondering. In the past, when I’ve tried to cut corners by purchasing the knockoff tool, I’ve ended up with something that doesn’t last and is disappointing. Anyone who has ever shopped at Harbor Freight knows what I mean. I expect the 936 will be the last soldering station I will ever need. Now a hot air pencil is a different story 😉 Beyond the 936 models, there is also the digital readout version of the Hakko solder station but it’s considerably more expensive for something that won’t make your soldering a damned bit better.
I keep my soldering station pegged at 700 degrees. If you are soldering something more sensitive or more heavy duty, adjust as needed obviously but 700 degrees seems to work well for my purposes. If you have concerns about this, consult the data sheet of the component you are trying to solder. Also, Don’t buy this awesome solder station and use crap solder. Grab a spool of Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 60/40. I have a roll that I’ve been using since 2001(it’s dated) and it works great. The lead free solder is complete and utter garbage in my experience. It makes for lousy solder joints and is just generally hard to work with.
While you are rounding out your kit, a Flux pen and Chem-Wik desolding wick are both extremely nice to have. Don’t buy 50′ of Chem-Wik from Amazon though. They come in 5′ rolls that should be less than $5 or so. Please feel free to comment on any experiences you’ve had with Hakko or Aoyue gear in the comments. Happy soldering!
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i have aoyue 2901 and it works very well comparded to the cheap irons i have had in the past your review of the Hakko 936 was very good and i hope to see more reviews from you in the future keep up the good work
I have a dead Hakko 936 and I must say the thing was a scam from the start (Yes I fell for it as many other did). It worked well and for least about four years, but when it did go I took it apart out of curiosity. The only electronics in the thing are in the very front where the dial is, and they are all old, through-hole mounted electronics on a board looking like it was made in the 80s. There is green 24v transformer that takes up most of the excess space in the plastic case. This is really the only thing you are paying for since there’s not much else in there. When the 936 unit failed this transformer got very hot. The only thing amazing about the unit is the iron itself and the ceramic element inside it.
I had to laugh at the comments in the Amazon review. This one is completely full of it:
A Superior Product — January 13, 2009
By D. RICKMERS
“This soldering station is state-of-the-art (LOL). Temperature is maintained within a few degrees at all times, allowing faster soldering. Hakko sells a wide variety of soldering tips for $6 (or less) each.”
There isn’t a single surface mount component on the PCB. The whole thing is basically a transformer on a switch. You call that “state-of-the-art”??
I must say that the Hakko style tips and elements are great. That is where the nice part of the soldering station really is. The ceramic elements heat up very rapidly and last a very, very long time. Whereas old pencil-type plugin irons and soldering guns would take a few minutes to heat up and provide no temperature regulation, Hakko-style irons heat up in seconds and you can leave them running without tip corroding to crap and the solder turning to dross. But you can get the same thing with Chinese clones for less. Look for a supplier for iron tips that sells what you need for $1-3 a part (not $6). If the tips come and turn out to be crap, buy from another supplier instead. There are Chinese Hakko-style tips that last almost indefinitely, and then there are others that have a corrosion problem and don’t last at all. Buy the right ones.
I would have to agree and disagree with you here on some points. I do agree with you that it is old/dated technology. The review saying that it’s “state of the art” is somewhat laughable… Although, “state of the art” itself is a fairly dated term that was used to describe 20th century technologies so maybe it’s perfectly appropriate for the Hakko 936 🙂
I’m guessing you are dead on that the technology in the 936 was designed in the 80’s… perhaps even in the 70’s. Maybe it was built with through-hole so technicians would easily be able to service and revive broken units, but I doubt it. It’s probably just old tech. I think if you opened up any of the Weller units, you’d probably find the same sort of thing. All that being said, I don’t have a problem with 80’s tech for something like this. I don’t need more stuff to break personally. I’ve used this station to solder sensitive SMT chips. Not sure what I would solder that would require more accurate temperature control than this has.
I haven’t had any issues with mine and that is especially true for the tip itself. The tip really is one of the most important things to consider as you’ve mentioned.
I’m surprised to hear that your Hakko failed. Judging from what you found opening up the unit, it doesn’t sound like there is much to fail in the first place. All that being said, I still think the Hakko is worth more than the Wellers. I feel like it’s a better solder station in that price range. I don’t think it’s worth over $100 though at all… I think realistically, it should be $60-$85 but if you have suggestions for an equal or better unit in the price range, I’d LOVE to hear it. Most of the others in the range are either Wellers or knockoffs of the Hakko units.
For full disclosure, I do have one friend who has a 936 and isn’t entirely satisfied with it, however, he used to work as a production soldering technician who build/reworked high end mixer boards. He has found that the 936 doesn’t keep up with his technique. I can understand that since he was using a $800+ solder station when he was doing that job so this one probably doesn’t compare well to those…
I personally had a good experience with it at the time. After a few years, a couple of its clones could be easily found in the market.